INTRODUCTION:

Hair care cosmetics are designed and developed to keep hair feeling good and looking beautiful and to maintain the scalp in healthy condition. Hair and scalp care cosmetics can be divided into several categories based on their functions and targeted consumer benefits ⁽¹⁾. The most fundamental consumer benefit is hair and scalp cleanliness i.e removing oil, dust, and dirt ,keeping hair and scalp clean for good personal hygiene and appearance.Shampoos is basically designed for this purpose.Cleaning is clearly a dominant element of personal hygiene and when reinforced by the aspect of attractive appearance, translates into a powerful and highly marketable stimulus. Shampooing has become thus a factor in maintaining the aesthetics of hair.^(2,3)

Shampoo in India was derived from the Hindi word champi meaning hair massage. The introduction of shampoo in India dates back to the British reign in the country. Being a recent development the growth of shampoo or rather the penetration levels of shampoo in the India has been commendable. The shampoo market in India is estimated to be 2,500-3,000 crore .⁽¹⁴⁾ Shampooing is the most common form of hair treatment. Shampoos have primarily been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. Selected ingredients of shampoo that have been popular with the consumer are currently under attack because of potential risks associated with their use (e.g. halogenated organic compound, formaldehyde, musk fragrance and crude coal tar)⁽¹⁵⁾

A viscous cosmetic preparation with synthetic detergent used for washing hair is called shampoo. Its principle function is to clean the scalp such that it should become free from sebum and foreign substances. Shampoos also make the hair lustrous and good looking.Apart from cleaning,shampoo may also be used for medicinal purpose (i.e medicated purpose)⁽⁴⁾

It should also kept in mind that although cleansing action is the fundamental assignment of a shampoo formulation ,it is by no means the only goal .The promise of hair shine ,softness,body,manageability is inherently tied to product performance.One must not ignore the process of shampooing itself.It is also expected to provide a pleasurable experience in working up a rich and lubricous lather that seems almost to cares the hair and leave it after rinsing with a touch of refreshing fragrance.⁽⁵⁾

Ideal Properties of Shampoos:^(1,2)

· It should have optimum viscosity such that it facilitates ease during application

· It should have good spreading properties

· It should produce sufficient lather after application.

· It should be able to remove waste materials such as debris ,soil sebum ,dead cells,salts(due to sweat )etc from the scalp.

· It should not form any kind of film on scalp

· It should rinse out completely after washing

· It should produce lather with both hot and cold water

· It should facilitate ease of combing after shampooing

· After drying the hair should not give rough appearance

· It should provide luster to the hair

· It should produce good odour both before and after shampooing

· It should not produce any kind of irritation or itching to the scalp

· It should not support any microbial growth

· It should be stable and have a half life of about 2 to 3 years

· It should be economical

Advantages:^(1,3,18)

· Hair shampoos fight dryness and oiliness.

· Relieve itch and irritation

· Keeps hair blossomed and beautiful

· Make hair lustrous and free from stickiness.

· Shampoos keep hair silly and smooth

· Pleasant fragrance is imparted

Disadvantages:^(1,2,3)

· The dangerous ingredient in shampoo, causes damage to hair follicles and cause hair los

· SLS, foaming agent in shampoos has protein denaturing properties causes inflammation and skin irritation with many other scalp problems.

· Daily shampooing decreases the natural production of oils of the skin thus causing various skin irritations.

· Frequent exposure to shampoo can cause rashes, skin inflammation, itching, redness and eczema because of the various harsh chemicals present in all the beauty products.

Types of Shampoos :

Various types of shampoos are available and they are classified based on their consistency:

They are as follows:

a) Clear liquid shampoos

b) Liquid cream shampoos

c) Cream shampoos

d) Gel shampoos

e) Powder Shampoos

f) Aerosol Shampoos

g) Special Shampoos

i. Medicated Shampoos

ii. Conditioner Shampoos

a) Clear liquid shampoos:

These are clear liquid preparations that are most widely used. They are usually made by using detergent of low cloud point.Alkanolamides can also be used in these preparation.Some of these shampoos may be transparent.^(1,3)

b) Liquid Cream Shampoos:

These are called as lotion shampoos which are modification of clear liquid shampoos.⁽⁴⁾

c) Cream hampoos:

These shampoos have a paste like consistency and are packed in collapsible tube. They findgreat use in hair salons^(1,2,18)

d) Gel Shampoos:

These are transparent and thick usually made by incorporating a gelling agent. There is great use in hair salons and beauty parlours.The principle ingredient is detergent which can be used either alone or in combination with soap.By altering the proportion of detergent ,gel of required consistency can be obtained.^(3,4)

e) Powder Shampoos:

This Shampoos is available in the form of dry powder. Powder Shampoos is prepared where addition of water or other solvents reduces the activity of the components ,especially in case of medicated shampoos.^(2,3)

f) Aerosol Shampoos:

They are called aerosol shampoos because they are packed in aerosol container^(1,2)

g) Special Shampoos:

These shampoos are meant for special purpose. They are:

i. Medicated Shampoos:

These Shampoos contain medicinal agents. These agent treat the disorders of the scalp or hair.

ii. Conditioner Shampoos:

These shampoos serve for hair conditioning. They also prevent sticking of hair.^(1,2,3)

Contents of Shampoos:^(1,3,18)

· Surfactants: The main use of surfactant is to clean and to produce foam

· Foam boosters: They stabilized or strengthened the foam

· Conditioning agents: These agents improve the condition of hair.

· Sequestrants: They are complex forming agents. They form complex with metal ions like calcium and magnesium

· Thickening agents: These agents are usually added to make the preparation thick i.e viscous

· Perfumes: Addition of these agents imparts good fragrance to the shampoo. It also neutralizes the undesirable odour of other of formulations especially surfactants.

· Colours: Addition of colour gives pleasant appearance to the preparation. The added colour must be water soluble and it should not impart any colour to hair or scalp

· Preservatives: These agents have the ability to prevent the growth of microorganisms. They are usually added to maintain the stability of the preparation for a desired period of time.Shampoo is wet preparation that provides a media for various microorganisms hence addition of preservative is essential.

· Special additives: These include special agent like conditioning agent, medicament etc

Evaluation of Shampoos:

· Visual assessment: The prepared formulation was assessed for colour, clarity, odor content.^(5,6,18)

· pH determination: The pH of the prepared shampoo in distilled water (10%v/v) was evaluated by means of pH analyzer at room temperature. Ph should be neutral^(1,12,13).

· Surface tension measurement: The prepared shampoo in distilled water(10%w/v) was evaluated for surface tension using stalagmometer.^(1,5)

· Foam and Foam stability: The Ross-Miles foam column is accepted .200ml of surfactant solution is dropped into a glass column containing 50 ml of the same solution. The height of the foam generated is measured immediately again after a specified time interval and is considered proportional the volume .Barnett and Powers developed a latherometer to measure the effect of variables such as water hardness ,type of soil and quantity of soil on foam speed ,volume and stability.^(1,8)

· Determination of solid content percentage: The percentage of solid substance was determined by weighing about 4g of shampoo in a dry, clean, and evaporating dish. To confirm the result the procedure was repeated again.The liquid portion of the shampoo was evaporated in a dish by placing on hot plate.The percentage and the weight of the solid contents present in the shampoo were calculated after drying completely.^(6,7,15)

· Softness: hair softness is an attribute associated with a smooth feel, devoid of stiffness and stickness. This attributeis evaluated on wet and dry hair as well as at the scalp and the ends of the hair.^(2,11)

· Rheological evaluations

The viscosity of the shampoos was determined by using Brookfield Viscometer (Model DV-l Plus, LV, USA) rotating at speeds of 0.3 to 10 rpm3 by using spindle T95.^(12,13,15)

· Dirt dispersion

Two drops of shampoo were taken in a large test tube containing 10 ml of distilled water and then add 1 drop of India ink; the test tube was stoppered and shakes it for ten times. The amount of ink in the foam was estimated as None, Light, Moderate, or Heavy.⁽¹²⁾

· Cleaning action^:^(3,12)

To determine cleansing action of shampoo 5 grams of wool yarn were placed in grease, after that it was placed in 200 ml. of water containing 1 gram of shampoo in a flask. Temperature of water was maintained at 350C then the flask was shaken for about 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times/ minute. The solution was removed and sample was taken out, dried and weighed.

The amount of grease removed was calculated by using the following equation:

DP= 100(1-T/C)

In which,

DP is the percentage of detergency power, C is the weight of sebum in the control sample, and T is the weight of sebum in the test sample.

· Eye irritation test

6 Albino rats were selected for eye irritation test and about 1% shampoo solutions was dropped into the eyes of albino rabbits and their eyes held open with clips at the lid. Any damage (swelling of the eyelid, inflammation of the iris, ulceration, hemorrhaging (bleeding) and blindness) to the rabbit’s eyes was recorded at specific intervals over an average period of 4 seconds.⁽¹²⁾

· Colour:

Shampoo colour selection has evolved to the increasing use of light, bright, eye-catching shades. Introduction of improved colour stabilising systems and merchandising techniques that have made product and package mutually supporting. Any colouring of shampoos must be done with certified colours. ⁽¹³⁾

· Sensitivity:

On humans sensitivity testing of cosmetics may be performed either as diagnostic or as prophylactic test. By diagnostic test it is intended to discover whether the cosmetic used has caused dermatitis, if cosmetic is known the ingredient which has caused it. It is known as diagnostic patch, prophetic test is done to assess whether a new cosmetic should be placed in market or not.⁽¹³⁾

· Stability:A shampoo should be stable for at least two or three years at room temperature in day light conditions as well as at low or high ambient temperatures during warehouse storageAlthough there are no industry standard aging or stability tests each company has developed internal test methods to evaluate product stability.Typically elevated temperature are used to accelerate the aging of a product and predict its stability.Aging product at multiple temperatures provides a more rigorous evaluation of stability .^(1,11)

· Package:

Shampoos should be contained in packages of good barrier properties, passage of water vapour; essential oil and air through the container possess a threat to product stability.⁽¹³⁾

· Detergency ability:^(14,17)

The Thompson method was used to evaluate the detergency ability of the samples. Briefly, a crumple of hair were washed with a 5%sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) solution, then dried and divided into 3g weight groups. The samples were suspended in a n-hexane solution containing 10%artificial sebum and the mixture was shaken for 15minutes at room temperature. Then samples were removed, the solvent was evaporated at room temperature and their sebum content determined. In the next step, each sample was divided into two equal parts, one washed with 0.1 ml of the 10% test shampoo and the other considered as the negative control. After drying, the resided sebum on samples was extracted with 20 ml n-hexane and re-weighed. Finally, the percentage of detergency power was calculated using the following equation:

DP= 100(1-T/C)

In which, DP is the percentage of detergency power,

C is the weight of sebum in the control sample and T is the weight of sebum in the test sample.

· Antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus:

Using the agar medium, the prepared antidandruff shampoo formulation subjected for antimicrobial activity by agar medium cup plate method. This antimicrobial activity was studied with 1 percent of antidandruff shampoos. T he petriplates were incubated at 37^◦C for 24hrs. The inhibitory zone was successfully observed for formulation⁽¹⁷⁾

· Washability:

The formulation was applied to the skin, and then was manually tested for ease and degree of washing with water^(1,17)

· Removal of Oily Mater

By applying 5 ml of herbal shampoo and checking the texture to ascertain the removal of oily matter removal of oily mater test was performed.⁹¹⁶⁰

· Luster of Hair:

By checking the shine on the hair after drying luster of hair test was performed.⁽¹⁶⁾

CONCLUSION:

Basic function of shampoos is cleaning and manageability of hair. Shampoos are available in various form like lotion shampoo,cream shampoo ,gel shampoo,powder shampoo etc.Special shampoo like medicated shampoo is also available for treatment of disease like psoriasis,seborrhiea etc.Shampoo is very essential for good health and strength of hair.Shampoos are meant for wider applications for hair like beautification,treatment and maintenance.

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Received on 23.09.2021 Accepted on 01.11.2021

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2021; 12(2):102-106.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2021.00014